Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

What is the best way to find inspiration for a custom ring design?

The best way to find inspiration for a custom ring is to stop looking at rings for a while. That sounds backwards, I know, but I've seen it happen about a...

The best way to find inspiration for a custom ring is to stop looking at rings for a while. That sounds backwards, I know, but I've seen it happen about a hundred times: a client scrolls Pinterest and Instagram for three weeks, shows up with a folder of screenshots that all look the same, and then spends the first twenty minutes of our consultation unlearning the trends they thought they wanted.

Start instead with what you actually care about. I had a client named Priya last spring who spent an hour talking about her grandmother's peonies before she mentioned the ring at all. That's where the design came from - a bezel-set Montana sapphire in a soft cushion, with a subtle hand-engraved peony vine wrapping the shank. She didn't know that's what she wanted when she walked in. She knew she wanted something that felt like her.

What actually works

Three sources consistently produce better results than scrolling jewelry tags:

  1. Your own life. Architectural details, textile patterns, a shape from a piece of furniture or a building you love. The best ring geometries I've built came from a client's description of a roofline in Barcelona and another client's mother's 1950s brooch that she'd never thought to reset.
  2. Eras, not trends. Pick a decade - Art Deco, Victorian, Edwardian, mid-century - and look at the jewelry from that period. Old mine cuts and milgrain from the 1920s. The heavy gold work of the 1940s. The clean minimalism of the 1960s. A specific era gives you a language to work with; a trend gives you a hashtag.
  3. The stone itself. If you already have a stone - inherited or purchased - let it dictate the design. An old European cut with a warm tint wants a yellow gold bezel or a simple four-prong. A step-cut emerald wants clean lines and sharp angles. A sapphire with visible silk wants light to fall through it. The stone will tell you what it needs if you look long enough.

The wrong way to look for inspiration

Don't pile twenty screenshots into a folder and ask a jeweler to mash them together. That produces a ring that's trying to be five things at once, and it usually ends up looking like none of them. I had a client named Marco do exactly that - he brought in a spreadsheet with reference photos for a cathedral setting, a hidden halo, a split shank, a pavé band, and an engraving pattern he'd seen on a vintage watch. I built him a rendering. He looked at it for about ten seconds and said, "That's too much." We started over with a knife-edge solitaire, 18k yellow, 2.4mm band, and an old mine cut he'd found at a show in Tucson. That ring is done. The other one never got past CAD.

What to bring to the first meeting

The best custom rings I've made came from clients who showed up with a single clear idea - a stone, a texture, a story - and let the rest emerge in the conversation. The worst came from clients who'd already designed the ring in their head and needed a jeweler to execute it. Inspiration isn't a finished drawing. It's a starting point you trust enough to let someone else help you build from.

Written by
Renee Alexander
Continue Reading

How do I choose a setting that protects a soft gemstone like opal?

Opal is about a 5.5 to 6 on the Mohs scale. That's softer than quartz, softer than most garnets, and significantly softer than the sapphire or diamond...