Are split-shank engagement rings more fragile?
No, not if it's made properly. A split-shank engagement ring is only more fragile than a solid-shank ring when the split gets too thin at the fork, or when...
No, not if it's made properly. A split-shank engagement ring is only more fragile than a solid-shank ring when the split gets too thin at the fork, or when someone adds pavé to arms that were never thick enough to carry diamonds in the first place. The split itself is not the problem. The geometry is.
I've set enough of these to know that the failure point is almost always the fork, the V where the band divides and rejoins. In a cast ring, that fork should be at least 1.8mm tall after finishing, and the two strands should not taper below 1.5mm. If a jeweler starts with a solid band and saws the split by hand, the edges can get sharp and the metal becomes thinner exactly where stress concentrates. That's not a design flaw with split shanks. That's a construction flaw.
Where split shanks actually fail
Last March, a client named Rachel brought in a split-shank engagement ring that had bent at the fork. The center stone was a 0.90 carat round, and both arms carried micro-pavé. The band measured 1.35mm at the thinnest point. The stones were all there; the gold had deformed. She caught the ring on a shopping bag handle. She didn't know whether to be embarrassed or angry.
I repaired it with a laser, not a torch, because the pavé was too close to work with open flame. Hidden under the gallery, I welded a small reinforcing bar that you can't see from above. The ring looked unchanged, but it stopped bending. That fix cost her about $180, and I told her it would have been unnecessary if the original bench had left more metal at the fork.
Pavé is a force multiplier here. The tiny prongs that hold each stone leave maybe 0.7mm of metal between settings. Add that to a split shank, and you have two thin arms each carrying beads and stones that sit less than a millimeter apart, which means a hard knock bends metal instead of moving a stone. That's the fragile part, not the split. A plain polished split shank in 18k yellow gold at 1.9mm will outlast a micro-pavé split shank in 14k white gold at 1.4mm every day of the week.
What to ask before you buy
If a client asks me for a split shank, I ask three questions: how wide, how thick, and what's going on the arms. A 2.2mm split shank with a plain finish is a tank. A 1.4mm split shank with full pavé is a liability. Most jewelers won't volunteer the thickness measurement unless you ask. Ask anyway.
You want the fork to be solid, not hollow, and you want the split to be cast or formed as part of the original design rather than cut out of a solid band after the fact, because a sawn split leaves sharp corners inside the ring where stress concentrates over time. If the band is under 1.6mm at any point, especially below the center stone, I'd tell you to go back to the CAD and add metal. No one notices an extra 0.3mm. Everyone notices a bent ring.
Rachel's ring is still on her hand. She stopped hanging it on the towel rack. That was half the problem.