Can I order a custom ring in a specific metal purity like 18K or 950 platinum?

Yes, absolutely. That's one of the main reasons to go custom in the first place. You're not picking from a catalog of pre-made settings where the metal is already decided. You're telling your jeweler exactly what alloy you want, and I'll work with whatever purity you choose - within reason.

Let me give you a few realities, though, so you know what you're asking for.

18k gold - the sweet spot for most fine jewelry

18k is 75% pure gold alloyed with 25% other metals (copper, silver, palladium, or nickel, depending on the color you want). I push most clients toward 18k for engagement rings and any piece meant to last generations. The color is noticeably warmer than 14k, especially in yellow. The patina ages better - it gets that soft, slightly richer look over decades rather than fading the way lower-karat alloys can. For a 1.04 carat old European cut in a 2.4mm half-round band, I'd quote 18k yellow without hesitation.

That said, 18k is softer than 14k. The difference is real but smaller than most of the internet claims. Both scratch. Both polish out. For a men's wedding band that's going to see gym equipment and car keys every day, I'll quietly recommend 14k and not feel bad about it. 58.5% gold, harder alloy, still plenty fine for daily wear.

950 platinum - yes, but ask about the alloy

950 platinum is the standard for fine jewelry - 95% platinum, 5% alloy metal. But here's the thing most clients don't know: that 5% matters. 950Pt/Ru (ruthenium alloy) is harder and better for prongs. 950Pt/Co (cobalt alloy) casts cleaner and finishes beautifully but can be a little less springy for thin claws. 950Pt/Ir (iridium alloy) is the traditional mix, excellent for heavy shanks but a bear to work with if resizing is needed later.

If you want platinum, I'll use the ruthenium alloy for almost everything. It's what I have in stock. I'll tell you flat out: for a daily-wear ring, 18k white gold with a good rhodium plating schedule is the smarter call for most clients. Platinum deforms before it abrades - the metal moves rather than wearing away, which means prongs can need re-tipping sooner than metal loss would suggest. I'm wearing a platinum band right now. It was a gift. I still think most people should pick 18k white.

What you can absolutely get (and what you can't)

Here's a quick list of what I'll cast or hand-fabricate in my shop:

• 10k, 14k, 18k, 22k gold - yellow, white, rose, green (yes, green gold exists; it's a gold-silver-copper alloy that reads as a soft pale chartreuse)
• 950 platinum in any of the three common alloys
• 950 palladium - lighter, grayer, niche but legitimate
• Argentium silver (935 or 960) - I don't use standard sterling for daily-wear fine jewelry

What I won't do:

• 24k gold for an engagement ring - it's 99.9% pure, which means it's soft enough to bend under normal wear. I'll set a wedding band or a pendant if you insist, but I'll explain exactly why it's a bad idea first.
• 10k platinum - doesn't exist. Platinum jewelry is almost always 850 to 950 parts per thousand.
• Mixed karat in a single cast piece - you can have a two-tone ring with 18y and 14w, but that means two separate castings, then soldering. The cost goes up accordingly.

The practical part: what it costs and how long it takes

Metal cost varies weekly based on the market, but I'll give you ranges so you know what to expect. For a plain 2.4mm half-round band in a size 7:

• 14k yellow: roughly $350-$450 in metal alone at current spot
• 18k yellow: $550-$700
• 950 platinum: $750-$950 - platinum is denser, so you need more weight for the same volume

And the catch: if you choose a platinum band and want a stoneset setting, the platinum prongs will be harder to work than 18k white. Fewer setters have the experience. It adds a week to the timeline easily. I quote six to ten weeks for most custom rings. Adding platinum and a complex setting pushes you toward the ten-week end.

Last March, a client named Daniel walked in wanting a 950 platinum solitaire with a 1.18 carat old European cut. He'd read somewhere that platinum was "the best." I spent an hour walking him through the white gold option. He picked platinum anyway. The ring came out beautifully. And six months later he emailed me about the prongs needing a tighten since the platinum had shifted slightly during daily wear. I didn't say I told you so. But I thought it.

So yes - you can order any purity you want. Just know what you're signing up for, and don't let a jeweler talk you into something based on prestige or habit. The right metal for your ring is the one that fits how you actually wear it.