Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

Can I order a custom ring with a specific setting style like bezel or pave?

Yes, absolutely. In fact, the setting style is usually the first thing I talk through with a client after we settle on the stone. Bezel, pavé, channel,...

Yes, absolutely. In fact, the setting style is usually the first thing I talk through with a client after we settle on the stone. Bezel, pavé, channel, cathedral, tension-I've built all of them. The real question isn't whether you can order a specific setting, but whether that setting is the right one for the stone you have and how you plan to wear the ring.

Let me give you two quick examples from the bench. Last spring a woman named Nicole brought in a 1.32 carat old European cut she'd inherited from her grandmother. Wanted a pavé setting. I pulled out a few wax models and talked her through why that stone-with its slightly off-round shape and a tiny chip on the girdle-would be safer in a bezel. She went with a half-bezel, 18k yellow gold, hand-finished. The ring came out quiet and strong. She cried when she put it on.

Then there was Marco, who came in with a photo of a full pavé band he'd seen on Instagram. The ring he wanted had me set about 40 diamonds in a row of tiny shared prongs. I told him two things: first, that style is a nightmare for resizing-you can usually only move it up or down about half a size. Second, the prongs in a pavé setting are tiny, which means they wear down faster and you'll be in for re-tipping every few years. He chose a channel setting instead. Same sparkle, less headache.

What You Need to Know Before You Order

Here's what I tell every client who asks about a specific setting style:

Can You Mix Settings?

Sure. A bezel-set center with pavé shoulders is a common ask. Or a cathedral with a channel-set band. I've built a ring with a half-bezel on the bottom of the stone and pavé set into the bezel itself. The trick is making sure the metal thickness and the stone proportions work together. A 1.5 carat round in a full bezel needs at least a 2.5mm band to look balanced. Pavé on that same band means you're losing metal to the stone seats, so I'll bump it to 2.8mm to keep the structure sound.

The short answer to your question is yes-you can order just about any setting style. The slightly longer answer is that the right setting depends on the stone, the hand, and how honest you are with yourself about how you treat your jewelry. If you sleep in your rings, skip the pavé. If you work with your hands, go bezel. If you want a ring that will still look right in thirty years, don't let Instagram decide for you.

Email me a photo of the stone you're starting with and I'll tell you which two settings I'd build it in. That's a conversation worth having before anyone melts any metal.

Written by
Renee Alexander
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