Can I order a custom ring with a tension setting?
Yes, you can. I'll do it. But let me tell you what you're actually asking for before you commit. Tension settings look like the stone is floating. No...
Yes, you can. I'll do it. But let me tell you what you're actually asking for before you commit.
Tension settings look like the stone is floating. No prongs, no bezel, just metal compressed around the girdle, holding the diamond by pressure alone. It's an impressive piece of engineering. It's also a trade-off that most clients don't fully understand until after the ring is done.
What a tension setting actually requires
The shank is cast or machined slightly smaller than the final size, then compressed in a vise, then the stone is set into the gap. When you release the vise, the metal closes around the girdle. That's the theory. In practice, it means the ring has to be cast in a specific alloy - usually platinum or a harder palladium-white 18k - and the stone has to have a girdle that's thick enough to take the pressure without chipping. I've turned down stones for tension settings because the girdle was too thin or had a feathered inclusion near the edge. You can't gamble on that.
The second issue is resizing. A tension-set ring cannot be sized in the usual way. You're not cutting the shank and soldering - you'd destroy the compression. Some shops can resize by recasting the entire shank, but that's essentially building a new ring around the same stone. I quote resizing limitations honestly: if your finger changes size by more than half a step, you're looking at a full remake, not a simple adjustment.
Where tension settings work well
I've built maybe a dozen tension-set rings over the last fifteen years. They work best with round brilliant or cushion-cut diamonds between 0.5 and 1.2 carats, in a heavy shank - at least 2.5mm wide, usually 3mm - in platinum or a high-cobalt white gold. The ring needs mass to hold the tension. Spindly bands don't work.
Last spring a client named Priya brought in a 0.94 carat round, GIA, triple-excellent, with a thick girdle. Her grandmother had worn a bezel-set ring and she wanted something that looked like nothing was holding the stone at all. We built it in 950Pt/Ru, 3mm shank, knife-edge profile. It came out clean. She's worn it for a year without issue. But I also tell every client: don't wear it to the gym, don't wear it while moving furniture, and bring it in every six months to check the tension with the torque gauge.
The honest alternative
If what you want is the look of a floating stone without the risk, a partial bezel or hidden halo achieves 90% of the same visual effect with none of the sizing limitations. A partial bezel wraps the stone on two sides - the metal looks like it's barely holding the diamond, but it's a secure seat. You can resize it. You can re-tip it. You can hand it down. A tension setting, by contrast, is a commitment to that ring in that size for as long as the stone stays in it.
So yes, I'll build you a tension-set ring. I'll quote you the real timeline - eight to twelve weeks, not six - and I'll show you the wax model and the stone in the vise before I commit. But I'll also show you the partial-bezel alternative first. Most clients choose the partial bezel. The ones who don't know exactly what they're trading.