Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

Can I request a custom ring with a specific design for a fashion ring rather than an engagement ring?

Yes, and honestly, those are some of my favorite jobs to take on. An engagement ring comes with a whole set of expectations-budget, timeline, pressure from...

Yes, and honestly, those are some of my favorite jobs to take on. An engagement ring comes with a whole set of expectations-budget, timeline, pressure from the partner's family, the weight of tradition. A fashion ring? That's pure design. You want something because it moves you, not because society says you need it.

About 30% of the custom work I do in a given year is fashion rings. A client named Priya came in last spring wanting a ring that looked like a tiny stack of books carved from one piece of metal-she was a rare-book conservator. I built it in 18k yellow gold, hand-fabricated, with a tiny spine detail engraved on each "book." It's not an engagement ring. It's a piece of her. The difference is everything.

What changes when it's a fashion ring

The short answer: pretty much everything except the process itself. You still get a consultation, sketches, a wax or resin model, casting, setting, finishing. That timeline is still six to ten weeks. But the constraints are different.

If you want a fashion ring with a colored stone, expect to pay for the stone on top of that. A nice 1-carat Ceylon sapphire, unheated, can run $2,000-$4,000 depending on color. A lab-grown sapphire in the same size is $200-$400. I'll set either. I just won't pretend they're the same thing.

What you should know before you ask

Not every jeweler takes fashion-ring work seriously. Some treat it as a side project between engagement-ring jobs. A good custom jeweler treats every piece with the same attention. Ask them how many fashion rings they made in the last year. If they can't give you a number, find someone who can.

You also need to be clear about what "fashion ring" means to you. Is it a daily-wear piece? Occasional? A statement ring for a specific outfit? That changes the metal choice, the stone choice, the setting. I had a client named Marco who wanted a bold signet ring with a carved onyx. He planned to wear it to the office every day. I steered him toward 14k instead of 18k and a full bezel setting instead of an open-back-both choices that trade a little beauty for a lot of durability. He still wears it two years later.

The one thing I'll warn you about

Fashion rings are harder to resize than engagement rings. The reason is simple: engagement rings have a predictable structure-a center stone in a head, with a shank underneath that can be cut and soldered. A fashion ring might have the stone set into the band, or have an asymmetric shape, or be carved from a single piece. That geometry often can't be adjusted without distorting the design. If you plan to buy a fashion ring and your ring size changes over time-pregnancy, weight change, arthritis-you may be stuck. I tell clients to buy the ring in the size they are now and treat resizing as a future redesign, not a quick fix. I quote that honestly up front.

The last thing: don't let anyone tell you a fashion ring is less legitimate just because it's not a symbol of something. Some of the most inventive work I've ever done has been fashion rings. They're the pieces people notice in the light, pick up off the bench, and say "that's the one." And they're right.

Written by
Renee Alexander
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