Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

Can I request multiple prototypes or revisions during the custom ring design process?

Short answer: yes, but with a clear understanding of how that affects timeline and cost. Most custom jobs I do include two to three major revision points...

Short answer: yes, but with a clear understanding of how that affects timeline and cost. Most custom jobs I do include two to three major revision points built into the price. The first is after the initial consultation, when I translate what you described into rough sketches or a CAD model. The second is when I show you a wax or resin model. The third is at the final stone-setting approval. Beyond that, you're paying for bench time and material, and that adds up fast.

Here's how it tends to play out in my studio. Sarah came in last fall wanting a three-stone ring with a sapphire center. We went through two CAD iterations - first a cathedral setting she thought looked too tall, then a lower-profile basket that she liked. That was free, within the design fee I quote upfront. Then she asked to see it in silver before committing to 18k. That's a prototype, and I charged her for the model metal and about two hours of bench time - roughly $180. She approved it, and the ring was finished six weeks later.

What most jewelers won't tell you about prototypes

The word "prototype" is slippery. Some shops use it to mean a CAD rendering. Some mean a 3D-printed resin model. Some mean a full cast in silver or base metal. You need to ask which you're getting and whether it's included. I typically do a resin model as part of the design fee - about $75-$125 in material, but I don't itemize it if the job goes forward. If you want a full silver casting to wear for a week and live with, that's different. That's a $300-$500 line item, and I'll tell you that before we start.

Revisions versus redesigns - know the difference

A revision is moving a prong by half a millimeter or tweaking a shank width. A redesign is changing the stone shape or the entire setting style. Most design fees cover two to three revisions. Redesigns cost extra, and honestly they should. If you decide the cushion you originally wanted should be a radiant, I'm remaking the entire setting. That's not a revision. That's a new job.

Realistic expectations for timeline

A single prototype in resin takes about a week to print, clean, and photograph - assuming I'm not backed up. A full silver prototype takes ten days to two weeks. If you're asking for three prototypes and the final casting, you're looking at eight to ten weeks minimum. Anyone promising a custom ring in under six weeks with multiple revision points is either lying or cutting corners on stone setting.

What I tell every client before they write a deposit: decide on the stone first. Pick the diamond or sapphire you're using, then design around it. Changing the stone mid-process is the single biggest cause of blown timelines and surprise charges. I've seen it happen about a dozen times. It's always avoidable.

The one revision I always push for

Even if you love the renderings, get a physical model. A ring on a screen and a ring in your hand are different things. The weight, the way light hits the metal, how wide a 2.4mm band actually looks on your finger - you can't judge that from a monitor. I've had clients approve a CAD and then hate the wax. That's the point. That's why we do it. The wax is cheap insurance against a piece you won't wear.

If you're working with a jeweler who doesn't offer a physical model before casting, ask why. The answer is usually about speed and margin, not about what's best for your ring.

Written by
Renee Alexander
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