Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

How does the ring design process work if I have a vague idea?

Vague is fine. More than fine - it's where most of my favorite pieces start. A client named Priya came in last year and said "I want something that feels...

Vague is fine. More than fine - it's where most of my favorite pieces start. A client named Priya came in last year and said "I want something that feels like a locket, but for my finger." That was it. No stone picked, no metal chosen, no setting in mind. Just a feeling. We ended up with a bezel-set rose-cut diamond in 18k rose gold with a hidden compartment under the stone. She cried when I handed it over. Vague ideas are the raw material.

Here's the real process, step by step. It works whether you're holding a Pinterest board or just a sentence.

Step one: The consultation

You and I sit down for an hour or so. I ask questions that sound simple but aren't: What do you want this ring to feel like on your hand? Heirloom or everyday? Quiet or noticed? Do you already have a stone, or are we shopping for one together? I take notes, but I'm also watching your hands - how you gesture, what you touch, the shape of your fingers. That matters more than you'd think.

I don't ask "What's your budget?" first. I ask "What matters most to you?" Then we talk money. A realistic custom piece in 18k with a lab-grown diamond runs from about $1,800 to $3,200 all in. Natural stones, colored stones, complex settings - that range shifts. I quote in ranges, not promises. If you walk in with a grandmother's diamond in a Ziploc bag, we start from that stone instead.

Step two: Sketches and direction

After our chat I go back to the bench and draw. Not CAD yet - pencil on tracing paper, usually about three variations. One that's exactly what you said, one that's what I think you meant, and one that's a wild card. I show you all three. We mark up the one that's closest. Sometimes we combine parts of two. Sometimes you look at the wild card and say "That's it." It's fast. It's honest. It costs nothing extra.

Step three: CAD and the wax model

Once we've settled on a direction, I build a 3D CAD model. This is where vagueness gets specific - every millimeter, every angle, every prong. I send you a render from all sides. Then I print a resin model. You try it on. The ring in plastic on your finger tells me things no drawing ever will. "The band feels too thin." "I thought this setting would sit lower." "Can we shift the stone a quarter millimeter to the left?" We adjust. We reprint if we need to. This is the stage where you change your mind, and you should.

Step four: Casting and fabrication

I send the approved model to my caster here in the same building. Three to five days for the metal to come back in 18k yellow, white, or rose. Or platinum, or 14k if you insisted, or palladium if that's your thing. Then I spend four to seven days at the bench - cleaning up the casting lines, polishing the surface, setting the stone, tightening prongs, checking everything under a 10x loupe. For a detailed setting like pavé or milgrain, add another few days.

Step five: The hand-off

Six to ten weeks from start to finish, depending on stone sourcing and complexity. Anyone promising two is rushing something. I hand you the ring in a box. You put it on. If it's an engagement ring, I've usually already texted your partner to warn them you're coming. I show you how to care for it - warm water, mild soap, soft brush, no ultrasonic for fragile stones. I give you a written appraisal for insurance. I tell you to come back in six months so I can check the prongs.

What to do if you're stuck

If "vague" feels like "I have no idea where to start," bring me pictures of things you don't want. That's often more useful. Show me rings that feel wrong - too thick, too thin, too flashy, too plain. We'll triangulate from there. Or bring me an object. A client once brought in a 1950s enamel brooch she'd found at a flea market. "Something with this feeling," she said. We did a custom cushion-cut aquamarine in a bezel with a hand-engraved pattern that echoed the brooch's lines. She wears it every day.

Vague isn't a problem. It's the start of a conversation. Send me an email with the sentence you have in your head - three words, two sentences, whatever - and I'll tell you what's possible from there.

Written by
Renee Alexander
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