Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

How long do custom rings typically stay in fashion?

That question misses the point, honestly. It assumes custom rings are subject to trends the way mall jewelry is, and they're not. But I get why people ask -...

That question misses the point, honestly. It assumes custom rings are subject to trends the way mall jewelry is, and they're not. But I get why people ask - nobody wants to spend three months and a few thousand dollars on a ring that looks dated in five years. So here's the real answer.

Good custom work sits outside trend cycles

A well-designed custom ring - one built around what actually works on a hand, not what's popular on Instagram - doesn't really go out of fashion. It might look unfashionable for a while if fashions swing hard, but it comes back around. Old European cuts were out of favor for about forty years, and now they're the hottest thing in antique settings. A clean, well-proportioned solitaire in 18k yellow gold never actually went out of style. It was just quiet for a decade while the pave halo had its moment.

The rings that age worst

I can predict which rings will look dated fastest, because I already see them in for repairs after ten years. Here's the short list:

What actually lasts

About 70% of the engagement rings I make now are variations on the same few stable forms: a six-prong round solitaire, a low-set bezel, a three-stone with old cuts, a simple cathedral. Clients ask for these because they've seen them on grandmothers and great-aunts and the rings still look right. Not exciting - right. That's the quality that ages well.

Last Tuesday a woman named Priya brought in her mother's ring from 1958. 1.04 carat round, F/VS1 by modern grading, four-prong solitaire with a knife-edge shank. She wanted to have it cleaned and the prongs tightened. That ring could sit in a display case at any of the better jewelers on 47th Street and nobody would blink. It's not retro. It's not modern. It's just a good ring.

What I tell clients who ask this

I say: don't chase what's current. Pick a stone you actually love to look at - not the one you were told you should want. Pick a setting that works with your hand shape and your daily life. If you can wear it to the grocery store and the office and a wedding without thinking about it, it will still look right in 2036.

The rings that become heirlooms are the ones that weren't trying to be fashionable in the first place.

Written by
Renee Alexander