Is it safe to wear an engagement ring on a chain around my neck?
Most of the time, no. Wearing an engagement ring on a chain around your neck is less safe than wearing it on your finger, and the failure points are...
Most of the time, no. Wearing an engagement ring on a chain around your neck is less safe than wearing it on your finger, and the failure points are predictable. I've seen it too many times at the bench. A nurse named Elena came in last March with a white gold solitaire she'd worn on a chain during twelve-hour shifts for two years. The chain had cut a groove into the bottom of the shank, almost halfway through the metal. It was repairable, but she was about six months from the shank snapping entirely.
The real issue isn't whether the chain will scratch the ring. It will. The question is which part gives out first, and if you'll still have the ring when it does. A standard spring-ring clasp on a thin cable chain can pop open under a jacket or a seatbelt, and if that happens the ring drops, and you won't hear it, and I've had clients lose rings this way. Not often, but once is enough.
If the ring has to live on a chain
For anyone who works with their hands, or can't wear a band under nitrile gloves, a chain can be the only option. I get it. Elena wasn't being careless. She was trying to keep the ring close. That part I understand. The way she had it set up was the problem. She'd threaded the chain directly through the ring, which is the cheapest and most common setup, and it's exactly the setup that causes the most damage.
- Use a solid chain, not hollow or cable. A 1.3mm to 1.8mm solid curb or wheat chain in the same metal family as the ring. Never a thin cable chain, and never plated.
- Close the chain with a locking clasp, or have the jump ring soldered shut. If the chain can't be opened by a quick tug, it can't drop the ring.
- Don't thread the chain through the ring. Use a ring holder pendant with a screw-lock bail, or have a jeweler fit a proper bail to the shank. The less the chain rubs against the ring itself, the longer both last.
What actually goes wrong
The groove in Elena's shank didn't come from the chain being sharp. It came from the total weight of the ring hanging from the same two links every day, metal on metal at the same contact point, hundreds of small movements per shift, and the chain can also wear through the prong tips if the ring flips. That's how stones get loose. Gold is soft. 18k is richer but also softer than 14k, and both will abrade. If your ring has a pavé band, don't wear it on a chain at all. The tiny beads that hold those stones are too easy to shear off.
I charged Elena $185 to laser-weld the groove, reshape the shank, and re-polish. Then we fit a locking bail with a screw-lock clasp from Stuller onto the ring, and she moved the chain to that bail. The chain stopped touching the shank directly. She still wears it around her neck. She also checks the prongs once a month now, because a loose stone will show up earlier than a snapped chain.
If you have to wear it on a chain, use a setup that doesn't let the chain ride against the shank, and check the prongs more often than you think you need to. The ring won't warn you before it fails. It just lets go.