Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

What is a tulip setting and how does it look?

Last spring, Lucia brought in her grandmother’s round brilliant. A touch too deep for a standard peg head. The tulip setting solved it. The prongs rise from...

Last spring, Lucia brought in her grandmother’s round brilliant. A touch too deep for a standard peg head. The tulip setting solved it.

The prongs rise from a cupped base that can accommodate a wider range of pavilion angles than a flat peg head, and that cup is exactly what gives the setting its name - from the side, it looks like a tulip flower with the prongs arcing upward and inward like petals before they grip the stone. More precisely, the head is carved or cast with a central hollow and a scalloped rim from which the prongs emerge, integral to the basket, filed and refined until the curve is fluid. You see this in six-prong designs more often than four, though I’ve built a few four-prong tulips for stones under half a carat. For anything over a carat that’s going to be worn daily, six prongs is the safer call.

The tulip silhouette also catches light from underneath because of the open gallery, which can make a well-cut stone look a fraction brighter. I’ll recommend it when the client wants a floral, romantic line without the heavy shoulder arches of a cathedral. It sits lower and snags less. In 18k yellow, the petals seem to bloom. In platinum, the same design can feel a bit lifeless because the metal’s stiffness dulls the detail, so I add tiny hand-cut veining to the prongs to bring the look back. That kind of work adds time, maybe $80 to $120. Not every shop does it. I do.

Written by
Renee Alexander
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