Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Journal/Article

What questions should I ask a jeweler before buying?

Most people ask about carat weight first. That's the wrong first question. The first thing you need to know is whether the jeweler will tell you the truth...

Most people ask about carat weight first. That's the wrong first question. The first thing you need to know is whether the jeweler will tell you the truth about what you're buying. I've seen too many clients handed a lab-grown diamond without being told, or a fracture-filled emerald sold as natural with a shrug and a receipt.

Here's what I'd ask, in this order, if I were standing across the counter from someone I didn't know yet.

1. "Is this stone natural or lab-grown, and how do you know?"

Ask it flat. Not a small-talk question. If the answer is "it's certified," ask certified by whom. GIA for natural diamonds, IGI for lab-grown is the standard. If the answer is "our own appraiser," walk out. A real jeweler hands you a report and tells you its limits.

I had a client last fall, Daniel, who came in with a "natural" emerald from another shop that had been oiled to the point of being a different color, and he'd paid natural untreated prices. That's not a gray area. That's fraud.

2. "What's the actual gold content, and what alloy is in the white gold?"

14k is 58.5% gold, 18k is 75%. That's chemistry, not snobbery. But with white gold, the alloy matters more than the karat. Nickel-white 18k can cause skin reactions in maybe ten to fifteen percent of people. Palladium-white is hypoallergenic and grayer. Ask which one they use. If the person behind the counter doesn't know, that tells you something.

3. "Can this ring be resized, and what happens if it can't?"

Tension settings often can't move more than a quarter size, sometimes not at all. Full eternity bands with stones all the way around are a pain to size and sometimes need to be remade. Tungsten can't be resized, period. A jeweler who doesn't bring this up before you buy is not doing their job. I've had too many people come in six months after buying a tungsten band online, wanting a size swap. I can't help them. Neither will the retailer.

4. "What does maintenance look like on this piece?"

A responsible jeweler will tell you about rhodium wear, annual prong checks, and the reality that small pavé stones occasionally loosen, before the sale, not after the stone is missing. I tell clients to bring rings in every twelve months for a check. Costs about fifty to a hundred fifty dollars depending on what needs tightening, less if I'm just looking.

5. "Who's actually doing the work?"

Some stores send everything out to a trade shop. Others have a bench jeweler in-house. Neither is automatically better, but you should know. If the person selling you the ring has never touched a torch, that's fine, but they'd better be able to answer technical questions without stalling. Ask what happens if a prong fails in the first year, who fixes it and where.

6. "What's your return and warranty policy, in writing?"

Verbal promises mean nothing. A real policy says what's covered, for how long, and what isn't. Stones lost from a worn-down setting are usually not covered. That's why maintenance matters. Get it in writing. Even an email works.

7. "Can I see the stone in daylight, not just under the case lights?"

Jewelry store lighting is designed to make mediocre stones look decent. A real jeweler will take you to a window or outside. I keep a small white tray by the door for this. If they won't, that's a flag.

What I'd skip

"Is this a good investment?" Don't ask that. Most jewelry is not an investment, it's a purchase with emotional value. Lab-grown prices are falling, and even natural diamonds have a steep retail-to-resale gap. Buy what you love, not what you think you can flip.

The question I wish more people asked

"What would you tell your own daughter to buy?" That one stops the sales script. I've had jewelers tell me they'd never sell a halo to family. A jeweler's honest answer to that question is worth more than any certificate. If the answer sounds like marketing copy, leave.

Ask these seven questions and you'll know within five minutes whether the person across the counter knows their work or is just reading tags. Either way, you'll leave with better information than most people walk in with.

Written by
Renee Alexander
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