Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Archive · Page 22
No. 212

How do I take care of a custom ring with a tension setting?

You don't. Or rather, you can't in the normal sense, because a tension setting isn't really set into the ring - it's held in place by the spring tension of...

No. 213

What are the best gemstones for a custom ring that is worn daily?

Start with the stone that's going to survive fifty years of hand soap, desk edges, and whatever else life throws at it. That means you want a mineral that...

No. 214

Can I design a custom ring that converts into a pendant or necklace?

Yes, you can. But the way most people imagine it-a ring that unscrews or snaps apart to become a pendant-usually produces a piece that's mediocre at both...

No. 215

Can I customize the band shape of a custom ring?

Yes, you can. That's one of the main reasons people come to me instead of a mall jeweler. The band shape-not just the width, but the cross-section...

No. 216

How do I choose between a halo and a solitaire setting for a custom ring?

The short answer: start with the stone, not the setting. Most clients walk in asking about halos or solitaires before they've even picked a center stone,...

No. 217

What is the typical markup on a custom ring compared to retail?

About 22 years ago, a client named Priya walked in with a photo of a ring from a Madison Avenue store. The retail price was $4,800. I built the same ring -...

No. 218

Can I design a matching custom wedding band and engagement ring set?

I probably make about two dozen matching sets a year, and the answer is yes - but the word "matching" does a lot of work. What most people actually want is...

No. 219

Can I incorporate a family heirloom stone into a custom ring?

Sarah brought her grandmother's ring into my studio last fall. The stone was a 1.18 carat old European cut, slightly off-round, with a small chip on the...

No. 220

How do I match my custom ring with an existing wedding band?

About 60% of the custom engagement ring jobs I take on have the same starting point-not a stone, not a budget, but a wedding band the client already owns or...

No. 221

What is the difference between custom and bespoke rings?

In the trade, "custom" and "bespoke" get tossed around like they mean the same thing. They don't. The difference matters if you're about to spend real...

A letter, every other Sunday.

One essay, one object, one quiet recommendation — delivered slowly, the way these things ought to be.