Vol. I · May 2026
put a ring on it
An editorial on the small, circular things we keep
Archive · Page 62
No. 612

What are some unique gemstone shapes for custom rings?

I'll say it plainly: most people asking for something "unique" end up with a cushion cut or an oval, which is about as unique as a black taxi in London....

No. 613

Can I get a custom ring with a specific gemstone cut, like a rose cut or princess cut?

Yes. The short answer is yes. The longer answer is: it depends on what you mean by "a specific cut," and on who you're working with. Rose cuts and princess...

No. 614

What are the advantages of a custom ring with a flush setting?

A flush setting - also called a gypsy setting - is one of those rare settings that solves more problems than it creates. The stone is seated into a drilled...

No. 615

How do I design a custom ring that matches my partner's style?

Start with their jewelry drawer, not a Pinterest board. That's where the truth lives. Open it and look at what they actually reach for. A pile of thin gold...

No. 616

Can I order a custom ring with a hidden halo?

Yes, you can. I've made quite a few of them over the years. A client named Priya came in last spring wanting one for a 1.24 carat oval diamond she'd...

No. 617

What is a CAD model and how is it used in custom ring design?

About sixty percent of the custom rings I make start with a CAD model. The other forty percent start with wax carvers, hand-fabrication from sheet and wire,...

No. 618

How do I ensure my custom ring is ethically sourced?

This is the question I've been getting more than any other for about three years now. It's also the hardest one to answer honestly, because "ethically...

No. 619

Can I design a custom ring with a tension setting?

You can, but I need you to understand what you're actually asking for before I say yes. A tension setting holds a diamond by compression alone - the metal...

No. 620

What are the best metals for a durable custom ring?

I've been asked this question, in some form, for about 22 years. Usually right after someone finds out what a tension setting actually costs to resize. The...

No. 621

How do I design a custom engagement ring that is also a surprise?

You don't. I'm going to say that flat up front, because I've seen the aftermath of too many surprise engagement rings that went wrong - the ring the partner...

A letter, every other Sunday.

One essay, one object, one quiet recommendation — delivered slowly, the way these things ought to be.